Bristol's Backyard Wine Gardens: Foot-Stomping Fruit in Urban Gardens

Each 20 minutes or so, an older diesel train pulls into a graffiti-covered station. Close by, a police siren pierces the near-constant road noise. Daily travelers hurry past falling apart, ivy-covered fencing panels as storm clouds form.

It is perhaps the last place you expect to find a well-established grape-growing plot. But one local grower has cultivated 40 mature vines heavy with round mauve berries on a sprawling allotment situated between a line of 1930s houses and a local rail line just north of Bristol downtown.

"I've seen people hiding heroin or other items in those bushes," says Bayliss-Smith. "Yet you simply continue ... and continue caring for your grapevines."

Bayliss-Smith, 46, a filmmaker who also has a fermented beverage company, is among several urban winemaker. He has organized a loose collective of growers who make wine from several hidden city grape gardens nestled in private yards and allotments across Bristol. It is sufficiently underground to possess an official name so far, but the group's messaging chat is called Vineyard Dreams.

Urban Wine Gardens Across the Globe

To date, Bayliss-Smith's plot is the only one listed in the City Vineyard Network's upcoming world atlas, which includes more famous city vineyards such as the 1,800 vines on the slopes of the French capital's renowned artistic district area and over three thousand vines overlooking and inside Turin. Based in Italy charitable organization is at the vanguard of a initiative re-establishing urban grape cultivation in traditional winemaking nations, but has identified them throughout the world, including urban centers in Japan, Bangladesh and Uzbekistan.

"Grape gardens help cities remain greener and more diverse. These spaces preserve open space from development by creating permanent, yielding farming plots inside urban environments," explains the association's president.

Similar to other vintages, those created in cities are a product of the soils the plants grow in, the vagaries of the weather and the people who care for the grapes. "A bottle of wine embodies the charm, community, landscape and history of a urban center," adds the spokesperson.

Mystery Eastern European Grapes

Back in Bristol, Bayliss-Smith is in a urgent timeline to gather the vines he cultivated from a cutting left in his allotment by a Eastern European household. Should the rain comes, then the birds may seize their chance to attack once more. "This is the enigmatic Polish grape," he comments, as he removes bruised and rotten grapes from the glistering clusters. "The variety remains uncertain their exact classification, but they are certainly disease-resistant. Unlike noble varieties – Pinot Noir, white wine grapes and other famous French grapes – you don't have to spray them with pesticides ... this could be a special variety that was bred by the Soviets."

Collective Activities Across the City

The other members of the group are additionally making the most of bright periods between bursts of autumn rain. At a rooftop garden with views of Bristol's glistening waterfront, where medieval merchant vessels once floated with casks of vintage from France and Spain, Katy Grant is harvesting her rondo grapes from approximately 50 plants. "I love the aroma of these vines. The scent is so reminiscent," she remarks, pausing with a basket of fruit resting on her arm. "It recalls the fragrance of southern France when you roll down the vehicle windows on vacation."

The humanitarian worker, fifty-two, who has devoted more than 20 years working for charitable groups in conflict zones, inadvertently took over the vineyard when she returned to the UK from Kenya with her household in recent years. She experienced an overwhelming duty to maintain the grapevines in the garden of their new home. "This vineyard has already endured three different owners," she explains. "I really like the idea of natural stewardship – of handing this down to future caretakers so they continue producing from this land."

Terraced Vineyards and Natural Winemaking

A short walk away, the final two members of the group are hard at work on the steep inclines of the local river valley. One filmmaker has established more than 150 plants perched on terraces in her wild half-acre garden, which descends towards the muddy River Avon. "People are always surprised," she notes, gesturing towards the interwoven grape garden. "It's astonishing to them they are viewing grapevine lines in a urban neighborhood."

Today, Scofield, 60, is picking clusters of dusty purple Rondo grapes from rows of plants arranged along the hillside with the help of her daughter, her family member. The conservationist, a wildlife and conservation film-maker who has worked on Netflix's Great National Parks series and television network's gardening shows, was inspired to cultivate vines after seeing her neighbor's grapevines. She has learned that amateurs can produce intriguing, pleasurable traditional vintage, which can sell for more than £7 a serving in the increasing quantity of wine bars specialising in minimal-intervention wines. "It's just incredibly satisfying that you can truly create good, traditional vintage," she states. "It's very fashionable, but in reality it's resurrecting an traditional method of producing vintage."

"When I tread the grapes, the various natural microorganisms come off the surfaces into the juice," explains the winemaker, partially submerged in a container of small branches, seeds and crimson juice. "This represents how vintages were made traditionally, but industrial wineries introduce preservatives to eliminate the wild yeast and then add a lab-grown culture."

Difficult Conditions and Inventive Approaches

In the immediate vicinity active senior another cultivator, who motivated his neighbor to establish her vines, has assembled his companions to pick white wine varieties from one hundred vines he has laid out neatly across two terraces. Reeve, a Lancashire-born PE teacher who worked at the local university developed a passion for wine on annual sporting trips to Europe. But it is a difficult task to grow this particular variety in the humidity of the valley, with cooling tides moving through from the Bristol Channel. "I aimed to make French-style vintages here, which is a bit bonkers," admits Reeve with a smile. "This variety is late to ripen and particularly vulnerable to fungal infections."

"I wanted to make Burgundian wines here, which is a bit bonkers"

The temperamental Bristol climate is not the sole problem faced by winegrowers. Reeve has had to erect a barrier on

Amber Schaefer
Amber Schaefer

A seasoned journalist based in Las Vegas, specializing in local news and entertainment coverage with over a decade of experience.